:titlep :title.Shipwreck and Collisions at Sea greatly prevented by Christophers' Patent Improvements in Naval Archtecture. With four plates. :etitle London: J. Olliver, 59, Pall Mall; P. Richardson, 23, Cornhill. Liverpool: Deighton & Laughton. M.DCCC.L. :etitlep. 8vo, (4), 112 p, 4 pl :body
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[page 336]
In my system of framing, the timbers will not be subject to be split in driving the bolts and tree-nails, the poulticing plan of bevelling chocks at the butts of the timbers will be got rid of, and the frame to the end of the ship's existence will be infinitely stronger than the usual mode of building.
For vessels of about 200 tuns burthen, each of my frames, which is to be understood embraces the frame on both sides of the vessel, will be generally composed of five pieces of timber - namely, the floor timber, two middle timbers, which I call middlers, being one on each side of the vessel, and two toptimbers, being one on each side of the vessel.
The heads and heels of all those five timbers are cut off square, and I unite every heel and head together by a hard wood dowell, fixed between every head and heel, so that the five timbers are in a continuous line with each other, from the plankshear on one side of the vessel down to the keel, and up to the plankshear on the other side of the vessel.
Hence, there are no foothooks in those frames, and consequently there are no foothooks by the side of either the floor timbers or top timbers.
The squared heel of the top timber butts upon the squared head of the middler, and the squared heel of the middler butts upon the squared head of the floor timber.
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[page 45]
Figure 4 shews a drawing of an intended substitute for a lodging knee which I call a "Kneeson," and in a vessel of 200 tons burthen, this kneeson in its flat part may be about two feet and a half long, three inches wide, and one inch thick. In its blot part it must be sufficiently long to extend from the hold side surface of the hereinbefore mentioned iron stringers to the outside of the planking, where it is to be clenched upon a metal ring or square plate. The diameter of the bolt part is one inch.
When that kneeson is applied, a seven-eights of an inch hole must be bored through the outside planking abreast of the side of the beam, and also abreast of the opening between the two iron bars which form the iron stringer.
The bolt part of the kneeson is then driven into the hole until the two shoulders of the flat part butt hard against the iron stringers, and then the flat part of the kneeson is bolted to the beam and my hereinafter described clip bolts would answer the purpose -- and when that is done, the end of the kneeson blot is strongly clenched upon a ring or plate on the outside planking.
When kneesons are above the copper line, they would be more securely bolted to the outside plank, if the ring for clenching were placed upon the plank without making any cavity in the plank to receive the ring. This remark may also be applied to the bolts of any knees which are above the copper line -- and in addition to the stronger fastening, the projecting rings protect the plank from chafing.
Frigates and line-of-battle ships, whose sides are materially weakened by the holes for the gun-ports, would be essentially strengthened by the iron stringers and kneesons.
There may be two kneesons to every beam-end, and they will probably be found stronger than lodging knees, because the strain upon the bolt part of the kneeson is kept to a continually straight line from the side of the beam, and consequently the strain is more direct than the throat bolt of any lodging knee. [page 46]
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[page 49]
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[page 51]
In a vessel of 200 tons burthen, the under thickness of the deck should be one inch, and the upper thickness should be two inches -- and as the chief object of the two thicknesses is to create a stop to the caulking, the under plank, which is slightly nailed to the beams, need not be so narrow as is usual for the plank of the upper decks.
In order not to diminish the thickness of waterways in the parts where the scupper holes will be fixed, the waterways are not to be in two thicknesses, but there is to be a rabbet on the inner edge, leaving only an inch thickness on a small part of the under side of the rabbet, so as to be flush with the under thickness of the deck, and thus create a stop for the caulking at the waterway seam.
The under planks may be placed upon the beams diagonally, but I prefer the under plank to be placed longitudinally, because greater lengths can be worked, and the longer the lengths of the plank, the fewer will be the butts, and the greater the strength. The clip bolts for the deck of the above sized vessel should be three eigths of an inch diameter, and seven and a half inches long.
Having many years ago caused several vessels to be built with the deck in two thicknesses and fastened with jagged bolts, I make no claim for that improvement, or for the defined dimensions -- but what I do claim is, the combination of the two thicknesses of deck, with their fastening by my hereinafter described clip bolts. [page 52]
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[page 67] Consists in making the yard of a ship or vessel out of two small spars instead of one large spar -- which I do by uniting the two small spars together at their butts or largest ends, by a hollow wrought-iron cylinder and a wood dowell fixed to the large ends of the two spars.
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[page 69]
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[page 72]
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[page 74]
[page 75]
Its shape is shewn by Figure 13 -- by which it will be seen, that in addition to an enlarged head, it has towards its end, a shoulder all round the wood, which shoulder is form &sic. by tapering the treenail for a short distance between the point and the head. When the treenail is driven into a plank and timber, the shoulder prevents the treenail from starting away from the timber, and as the enlarged head prevents the plank from starting away from the timber, the plank becomes firmly clipped to the frame.
Nothing tends more to the permanent strength and tightness of a ship than the close adhesion of the planks to the timbers, and the fastenings ought therefore to be of such a kind, as that neither the operation of caulking nor the straining of the vessel shall at any time, or in any degree, force the planks away from the timbers. The diameter of the treenail is the same near the end as in the middle, and to insure the shoulder holding properly, it must be turned in a lathe or other machine, and so that the shoulder shall be at a sharp right angle with the treenail hole -- and, when driven as usual into a smaller hole than the size of the treenail, the point of the shoulder shall have a tendency to cut into the timber, and thus prevent the treenail from ever starting away from the timbers.
The clip treenail will probably draw the plank closer to the timbers than a common trenail, altough the latter should go through both plank and ceiling.
When the outside plank is not drawn close to the frame, the friction of the bilge water diminishes the size of the treenails, and thus the fastening becomes very insecure.
Before driving any treenail, I recommend the hole as well as end of the treenail to be smeared with hot vegetable tar -- or if just before driving the treenail it were immersed in hot tallow, or hot linseed oil, the treenails would be much more durable than at present. [page 76]
To receive the enlarged head of the treenail, the outer part of the treenail hole in the plank may be trifingly enlarged with a cooper's bung-borer.
The rounding of the treenail head is to prevent its splitting while driving.
Regarding this improved treenail, I make no claim for either the enlarged head or the turned shoulder separately, but what I do claim is, the above particularly described clip treenail with the turned shoulder, combined with the enlarged head, for fastening vessels' timbers and planks together.
In driving long treenails, it has been found that they frequently split and break, and that, to ensure their being driven, they must be of less diameter than short treenails for the same size auger-hole. Hence long treenails necessarily become a very bad fastening -- especially with reference to that very important point in shipbuilding -- the drawing the plank close home to the timbers. [page 77]
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Hawse-holes so placed will enable the vessel to ride at anchor more head to wind, and prevent her shearing about to the annoyance of herself as well her neighbours. [page 80]
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[page 82]
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If the ceiling of ships of war, from the keelson to the orlop-deck beams, were made as tight as the bottom, they would be much better protected against foundering than by the solid-floor system. [page 83]
An iron cylinder placed round the hold-part of every lower-mast, would serve the doubly useful purpose of encasing the mast without taking up much room, and of enabling the mast to be lengthened, should the mast-head decay or be carried away.
By this plan the masts and rigging might be secured without throwing any pressure upon the sides of a ship -- for as every one of the four spars passes through the deck, and is fixed to a step in the lower part of the ship's hold, their is no pressure elsewhere than upon the ship's keelson and floors. [page 84]
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[page 85]
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In one side of each fin there are holes to reeve large rope or small chain, which is to serve the purpose of hinges and to keep the fins in a vertical position in the water, and they are then fastened to part of a bower cable which is put overboard, and brought round the vessel's bottom, abreast of the foremast and then bowsed taut. A rope-guy from the outer end of each fin leads adt where the guy is fixed, to prevent the fin's traversing forward beyonf an angle of about ninety degrees from the vessel's side -- and there is a rope leading forward from the outer end of each fin to a block at the end of a topsail-yard, temporarily fixed on the deck a short distance abaft the stem, which latter rope leads inboard to a tackle or tiller, and thus the vessel is steered. [page 86]
The expense of repairing ships is occasionally frightful; and, as it has become an imperative duty to diminish the cause by every possible means, why should not shipowners give their opinions in writing to the "Shipowners' Society," and why should not that body annually publish the opinions so given? They would be throughly analyzed -- and if discovered to be errroneously &sic., they would be refuted & ndash. and thus, in time we should arrive at the desired truths.
English, or indeed any, timber grown within forty miles of the sea-coast, other circumstances being equal, is more durable for shipbuilding purposes than if grown further inland -- and if felled only in the month of January, immediately stripped of its bark -- or hewed -- and always kept one foot or more clear of the ground, from the time of its felling to the time of its being worked into the vessel, much less dry rot would exist.
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